G8MNY > TECH 22.04.25 07:45z 215 Lines 10097 Bytes #183 (0) @ WW
BID : 30882_GB7CIP
Read: GUEST
Subj: NORTHERN 650W 2 Stroke Genny
Path: ED1ZAC<ED1ZAC<GB7CIP
Sent: 250422/0738Z @:GB7CIP.#32.GBR.EURO #:30882 [Caterham Surrey GBR]
From: G8MNY@GB7CIP.#32.GBR.EURO
To : TECH@WW
By G8MNY (Updated Sep 15)
(8 Bit ASCII graphics use code page 437 or 850, Terminal Font)
I bought this very clean & hardly used non working 63cc one at a junk sale, and
"it worked OK last year" I was told! It seems identical to the Wolf, Pro User
and KINGAVON versions.
On looking into the non-running, there was no intake "suck". This is a 2 stroke
with an angled engine and the carburettor ported into the crank case with a
reed valve, rather than an upright engine with bottom edge of piston valve
intake.
Oil Measuring
Filler Cap Ü Handle ÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜÜ
Ú===¿ Û ÞÝ Ú===¿ ÞÝ
/~~~~Tank~~~~~\ /~~~~~~Tank~~~~~~~\
----------------- ---------------------
Mains|ÀÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÙÝ DC|~~~~~³~~~~~~~~~~~|On/off
|(0)= _-~\ÞÝSilencer |MAINS³ choke []|
Choke´Tap Start\\\\\\Plg Ý ³ ø ===== |\
|ÄÄÄÄ¿pull~\\Cyl\ Þ³-----------------| |Pull
Air |Carb³,\/~~~\\_-~ Alternatorݳ Air |ø|Start
Box &| ³ ³ ( ) ³ ³ß Þ³ Filter | |
FilterÀÄÄÄÄÙ\ \___/ / Ý_________________|/
Ú'ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿'¿ ÀÂÄÂÙ ÀÂÄÂÙ
""" """ """ """
ENGINE FAULT
Checking the ignition, there was a weak spark OK, and there was compression, so
I tried putting petrol/ether spray into the crankcase through the reed intake
valve, but the engine still did not fire. So I put took the silencer off
(needed painting anyway) and put spray through the exhaust port, this did give
a bang on turning over, so the ignition and timing was OK.
The fault was eventually found to be a popped out crankshaft bearing air seal
rubber, between the engine and the alternator. This may have happened if there
had been a back fire in the crankcase, or just a lot of compression. There was
not usual spring circlip in a groove to hold it in place in this design!
ALTERNATOR
± ±SHAFT
± ±
TAPERED ±ÝÞ±
FIT SHAFTSÞÝÞÝ ADDITIONAL SCREW
__ ÛÝÞÛ __ & RIGHT ANGLE
ÅÅÄ¿ ÛÝÞÛ ÚÄÅÅÄ SEAL CLAMPS
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÅÅ¿³ ÛÛÛÛ ³ÚÅÅÄÄÄÄÄÄ
Web Tap³³ ÛÛÛÛ ³³Tap Web
hole³°°>ÛÛÛÛ<°°³hole °°> Air tight Oil Seal
³(o)ÛÛÛÛ(o)³ (o) Ball race bearing
ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÁ ÛÛÛÛ ÁÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ
CRANK CASE ÛÛÛÛENGINE
INTAKE SUCK ÛÛÛÛSHAFT
& TRANSFURE
COMPRESSION
To get to the fault, I needed to split the alternator off the engine (3 outer
bolts) and remove silencer and gently levering off the end casing. A long bolt
through the alternator shaft holds it on to the tapered crankshaft, this was
the first problem and a smart tap the socket set freed this OK. Then on the
lose bolt a sharp tap with a hammer to free the crankshaft off the alternator
rotor. Now was the problem of fixing the hardly worn air seal back in place so
it would not spin. Initially I used instant gasket sealant, but eventually I
added 2 right angle metal pieces, held in by drilled & tapped screws in the
available cast lugs around the bearing, these lock the seal in place.
But this failed a year later with the captured seal managing to get half way
out. I managed to find a new tight fitting seal and a circlip to hold it in
place just in cast it started to rotate and loosen as the old one did.
ALTERNATOR FAN
Also I noticed the Alternator Fan was loose, this removes about 100W of heat,
and blows it over the exhaust, but it was able to free wheel! I used 2 part
glue (resin and hardener) to fixed that OK, & re-fixed the 2 locating lugs etc.
Long Bolt
Bearing [~~]
[(o)±Þݱ(o)]
±ÞݱSHAFT
ÚÂÂÄÂÄÂÄÂÂÄÄÄÄ¿±ÞݱÚÄÄÄÄÂÂÄÂÄÂÄ¿ALTERNATOR
³³³ ³ ³l³³ ³±Þݱ³ ³³l³ ³ ³³³FAN
³³³_³_³u³³_ _ ³±Þݱ³ _ _³³u³_³_³³³
³g³_glue/±Þݱ\glue_³g³
²²² ±Þݱ ²²²
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛROTOR
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛWITH
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛCOIL &
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛDIODE
ÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ±ÞݱÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛÛ
CIRCUIT
Not having the handbook etc. I have reverse engineered the diagram...
12V(20V) 240V AC STOP
Charging ÚÄÄÄÄÄ¿ ÚÄo\__
+³ ³- E _³_ bn³ ³bk
3A Bridge N L /// ------------
Rectifier ³ ³ |Electronic|ÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿or
³ ³ (155V)³ ³ | Ignition | ³
7A ³ 15u 450V³ 2.3A | Module | 0R2³2K2
Trip ³ ÚÄ´ÃÄ¿ ³ Trip ------------ ÚÄ()))))ÍÍ»
³ gn³ ³ ye³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ===== º
³gn ³ ³ye ³ ³bk rd³ rd/wh³ bn³ bk³ ³ Coil ºEHT
_³_ _³_³ _ _³ _³_ _ _³_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ ³ _ ³_ _ ³_ _ ³ _ _ _ _ ºlead
³ ³ ³ ³ ³ ³ | 34R|( )| ³ ³ º
³0R3³ ³3R2 ³ ³ 6R8 ³ ROTOR | Timing|( )| ³ ³ Plug º
À())Ù À((()Ù À(((()Ù Ú(((()¿ | Pickup ÀÄÄÄÁÄÄÄÄÁÂÄÄÄÙ ÚÄ> <5K¼
==== ==== ===== ³=====³ | & Magneto 730R _³_ _³_
ÃÄ´>ÃÄ´ | /// ///
A L T E R N A T O R ÀÄÄRÄÄÙ | C R A N K C A S E
ALTERNATOR EXCITATION
This is a brushless alternator with the excitation of the rotor magnetically
charged up each half cycle from circulating 90ø out of phase currents from the
exciting 15uF capacitor. The rotor winding has a diode across (and back emf R)
it to maintain the current, half a cycle after the kick. Excitation only starts
at high enough RPM (2000RPM) to overcome the diode voltage drop loss, with the
weak residual magnetic rotor field. This system is more reliable than the brush
type, but it does produce a kink in the load winding waveform and there is no
opportunity for voltage control other than engine RPM.
CHARGING
As I did not have the special DC plug and lead, I made a plug (- |) from 2
brass strips, poked these into socket and through cardboard, to form the plug's
mould base, and fitted a cardboard tube. Made the lot into a good mould, and
with the petrol tank removed up end the generator to get the socket level, spay
oil / grease into the socket holes and refit the plug strips & mould.
wires
_Þ Ý Mix up resin and hardener with some fiber glass to add strength
ÚÅÄÅÄÄÄÅÄ¿ for the plug base. pour in and tamp down. When set remove the new
ÀÅÄÅÄÄÄÅÄÙ plug, cut off the cardboard mould, Grind and file off the resin
³ ³ ³ lump into the wanted shape, Solder on the new lead to the brass
³ ³ ³ strips noting +/- and tape the lot up in rubber amalgamating tape,
³_³ ³ this finishes the plug.
Although there is a 7A trip (12A to activate!) before the bridge, the rectifier
is only made from 4x 3A diodes in the connector box with no heat sink! To
improve on this, I cleaned off all the painted copper track, and flowed a thick
layer of solder all over it to act as a heat spreader. And I also doubled up on
the diodes, putting 4 more on the copper side of the PCB. Note the current trip
does not prevent blowing the diodes on wrong battery polarity! So a 13A fuse in
the charging lead will help that!
In practice though on a good battery the charging current is only 3-4A, but
enough to boost a flat car battery (@ 10A ?) in a few mins so you can crank the
car over.
OTHER MODIFICATIONS
1/ To reduce the VHF/UHF ignition noise, I have added a loose coax braid over
the lead earthed at the plug screened cap.
________ Added loose Coax Braid
Metal ³ÜÜÜÜÜÜÜ-================================----- EHT Lead To
Cover ³Ý|n|ÜÜÜ-================================ÄÄÄÄÄ Magneto coil
suppressor ³Ý³~³Þ|~~~
plug cover³ÚÙ À¿³
_ ³³~~~³³
CylinerÁÄÁÄÄÅÄÄÄÅÄÄÄ
À~u~ÙSpark Plug
2/ To improve the voltage regulation, I applied my current solenoid feed
forward modification. This was easily done, by adding a small solenoid (e.g.
from an old VCR) rewound with a few turns of suitably insulated & thick
enamelled copper wire, that takes the 230V 4A full load current (neutral).
Mounted is with a single large screw, firmly on the engine webbing, by the
speed setting adjuster. (Tap/Make hole in webbing) The solenoid piston is
linked up to aid the speed setting spring as the load comes on. The length of
the thick link wire is critical so that the piston only just goes fully home at
full throttle, and if less compensation is needed the wire can be bent slightly
to adjust the effect (Mount the petrol tank via a pipe elsewhere for testing).
__
CRANKCASE BOB ³()³AXLE
WEIGHT GOVERNOR³ ³
³ ³ SPRING ___ SPEED
³ o³ÄÄÄ,/\/\/\.ÄÄÄÄ[___[ADJUSTOR SCREW
³ o³ Link Wire ÚÄÄÄÄÄÄÄÄ¿
³ o³============²²³SOLENOID³
³ ³ BOOST__\ ÀÄÄÄÄÂÄÂÄÙ Alternator
³ ³ PULL / bk³ ³bk Load
³ ³ Neutral Neutral
³ o³_________
ÀÄÄÙ Throttle link
N.B. Solenoid pull is proportional to:-
1/ the Mains load current squared,
2/ the number of turns on solenoid coil,
3/ the location of the movable iron piston slug.
With this modification a good 230V @ 750W peak is available under resistive
lamp load tests from this small generator.
CONCLUSION
Although 2 stokes are not the best engine for efficiency etc. and fuel oil mix
is needed, their simplicity and reliability if maintained (clean carburettor
and muffler) it does give a simple lightweight power source. The noise of this
one changes from poor putting misfires on no load, to a steady 50Hz hum on
higher loads.
N.B. if the engine is difficult to start, "ether spray" in the air inlet does
help!
So a lot of work was needed, but now I have good genny in the end for /P work.
See my TECH buls "Regulating 12V Generator Output", "Cheaper Generators" &
"Petrol Generators for /P SSB"
Y Don't U send an interesting bul?
73 de John G8MNY @ GB7CIP
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